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Post by systpro on Jul 23, 2017 18:09:26 GMT
Hello World ! *thanks to kristiank for the steps to configure arduino to modify and upload the firmware.  As some know, it was impossible to print decently, because of my hotbed is not completely flat, a consequence of my learning process when crashing the hotend several times, reading and researching I found that Marlin 1.1.4 brings advanced function to compensate for such irregularities: * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR * Probe several points in a grid. * You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points. * The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds. By approving this function, I successfully print my first layer on each impression made.! As a side effect, the new Cura 2.6.2 now detects my printer connected to USB! Arduino 1.8.3 www.arduino.cc/en/Main/SoftwareTEST with CAUTION, (autohome, autolevel, endstops, temperatures ) best use pronterface to test and your finger on the power Switch ! From kristiank, updated from me. 1. Download the Arduino IDE and install it 2. Tools => port => select the com port (in my case COM5) 3. Tools > Board > Boards Manager... > Arduino AVR Boards(click on it) > select 1.6.11 from the "Select version" menu > Install 4. Download the modified FIRMWARE 1.1.4 from my google drive: drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxkvWmKczYDFWWhuTzBKQUU2dlk?usp=sharing5. Open MARLIN 1.1.4/marlin/marlin.ino 6. In Arduino IDE you need to set the board type: tools>board>"Arduino/genuino mega or mega2560" 7. Connect the printer with the usb, but leave the power button at 0. 8. Upload the new confiuration using the upload button: Marlin Arduino 1.8.jpg My knowledge in programming is basic, I just followed tutorials, a little common sense, some copy-paste, the help of this great forum and courage to try. Please only consider this update if you have been having problems with autolevel, (Do not ruin what is working well!) I was about to kick the bucket with this printer, and pull the trigger for a c10 creatility, but I decided to try it and it worked! In the meantime, i keep learning and tuning firmware details, be kind and share your experiences and improvements. For all to learn.
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Jul 23, 2017 18:20:20 GMT
Nice work! Can you share your thermistor values? I believe they're both 1, but I'm not sure
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Post by systpro on Jul 23, 2017 18:26:14 GMT
Nice work! Can you share your thermistor values? I believe they're both 1, but I'm not sure Thanks ! for the hotend and hotbed, * 1 : 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup) #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_4 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 // Use temp sensor 1 as a redundant sensor with sensor 0. If the readings // from the two sensors differ too much the print will be aborted. //#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT #define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10 // Extruder temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success #define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds) #define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one #define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early. // Bed temperature must be close to target for this long before M190 returns success #define TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds) #define TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one #define TEMP_BED_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.
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Post by kioskfan on Jul 26, 2017 15:37:43 GMT
This is really good work. Are you using the stock main board?
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Post by systpro on Jul 26, 2017 18:23:58 GMT
This is really good work. Are you using the stock main board? Thanks! Yes! stock main board ! stock fans, the firmware 1.1.4 shared in my googledrive has AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR in all the bed and safe homming activated. another great function activated is leveling fade height! Extract from marlin web siteLeveling Fade Height #define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT Available with MESH_BED_LEVELING, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR, and AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL. This option adds the Z parameter to M420 which sets a fade distance over which leveling will be gradually reduced. Above the given Z height, leveling compensation will no longer be applied. This feature exists to prevent irregularities in the bed from propagating through the model’s entire height. Fading out leveling also reduces computational requirements and resonance from the Z axis above the fade height. For a well-aligned machine, this feature can improve print results.
Example: To have leveling fade out over the first 10mm of layer printing use M420 Z10. If each layer is 0.2mm high, leveling compensation will be reduced by 1/50th (2%) after each layer. Above 10mm the machine will move without compensation. i make a test with fade height in my start gcode at 1mm and the Z steppers stop moving just past that height setting, solid like a rock: ___________________________________________________ G21 ; set units to millimeters G90 ; use absolute positioning M82 ; absolute extrusion mode M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; set bed temp M104 S{material_print_temperature} ; set extruder temp M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; wait for bed temp M109 S{material_print_temperature} ; wait for extruder temp M420 Z1 ; Z fade height at 1 mm, for best results 5mm or more.G28 G29 G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position ____________________________________________________
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Jason
New Member
Posts: 17
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Post by Jason on Aug 4, 2017 21:38:09 GMT
I'd just like to acknowledge to everybody involved with this upgrade. My printer came from the '-25/9' Batch causing no end of issues as those that know, know. A lot of valuable hard work appreciated! Huge Thanks!! 
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jon
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by jon on Aug 6, 2017 22:52:09 GMT
I have a DP4 & did the 1.1.4 upgrade as above for the mesh leveling option, but now I am having constant "heating failed" errors requiring hard resets.
I tried modifying #define WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD 60 // Seconds #define WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE 5 // Degrees Celsius
to the current settings with on luck.
Any thoughts - short of replacing the thermister out entirely from the hotend? Had no temperature issues on the original firmware that came with it. Have also tried a current 1.1.4 from Github & get nothing at all except 2 lines on the LCD.
Thanks
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jon
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by jon on Aug 6, 2017 23:36:51 GMT
Forgot to mention: pronterface shows temp being maintained. X y Z movement while extruding with temp maintained. Send a home command and boom heater fail.
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Post by systpro on Aug 10, 2017 5:12:30 GMT
I have a DP4 & did the 1.1.4 upgrade as above for the mesh leveling option, but now I am having constant "heating failed" errors requiring hard resets. I tried modifying #define WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD 60 // Seconds #define WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE 5 // Degrees Celsius to the current settings with on luck. Any thoughts - short of replacing the thermister out entirely from the hotend? Had no temperature issues on the original firmware that came with it. Have also tried a current 1.1.4 from Github & get nothing at all except 2 lines on the LCD Thanks Hello Jon ! Welcome to the Forum!, sorry for the late response, i have the very same problem at the beginning of using this firmware 1.1.4,I definitely thought something was not right, because I've never had this error before with the factory firmware, although I admit I had less of the month with the printer and almost no experience with 3d printers. And I discovered that part of the error was caused by myself being in the "tune" menu by adjusting the temperature constantly during the printing or during the autolevel phase, reading in the marlin forums it seems that there is a setting parameter where If a loss of more than 10 degrees Celsius is detected for a certain time, the printer considers it to be a failure of heating and for safety halts the printer. In this marlin 1.1.4 during the final stages of a 5x5 bilinear autolevel the temperature of the hotend falls between 8 and 9 degrees celcius, I suppose for the over voltage requirement in the motors, but recovers when starting the process of printing avoiding the Heating error, having the printer at room temperature in a room without air conditioning (I live in Sonora, Mexico where the outside temperature is 45 degrees in the shade with 55 degrees feel) helped a lot to the temperature loss in the hotend. I recommend starting at a conservative temperature in PLA would be 190 C and I with ABS from HATCHBOX in 215 C extrude perfectly. Please tell us how it turned out My Cura 2.6.2 printer settings Start gcode G21 ; set units to millimeters G90 ; use absolute positioning M82 ; absolute extrusion mode M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; set bed temp M104 S{material_print_temperature} ; set extruder temp M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; wait for bed temp M109 S{material_print_temperature} ; wait for extruder temp M420 Z10 G28 G29 G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position Configuration.h (from line 281 to line 294) // Use temp sensor 1 as a redundant sensor with sensor 0. If the readings // from the two sensors differ too much the print will be aborted. //#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT #define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10 // Extruder temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success #define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds) #define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one #define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early. // Bed temperature must be close to target for this long before M190 returns success #define TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds) #define TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one #define TEMP_BED_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.
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Post by tanephar on Aug 12, 2017 1:46:46 GMT
I would just like to take this opportunity to say thanks systpro for the great work with this firmware upgrade, there are some great features here, that were not available with the ex factory firmware.
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Post by nik007 on Oct 7, 2017 11:55:32 GMT
Hello! I have some questions about this firmware. 1. What I need edit to change language on LCD? 2. Should I have to change something in files before uploading firmware?
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Post by tanephar on Oct 8, 2017 10:36:01 GMT
Hello! I have some questions about this firmware. 1. What I need edit to change language on LCD? 2. Should I have to change something in files before uploading firmware? You need to change the language in the configuration.h file before you upload the firmware. you will find all the information you will need here: marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#configuring-marlin-1.1Good luck.
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Post by nik007 on Oct 9, 2017 8:43:34 GMT
Hello! I have some questions about this firmware. 1. What I need edit to change language on LCD? 2. Should I have to change something in files before uploading firmware? You need to change the language in the configuration.h file before you upload the firmware. you will find all the information you will need here: marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#configuring-marlin-1.1Good luck. Thanks! I will try to do this on this week.
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Post by cipispe on Oct 23, 2017 4:55:38 GMT
Hello. I have a DP4. I tryed to update firmware, I did all steps described in this post. My printer was detected on port 3, but when I hit ‘Upload’ it tells me: the board is not connected. (??) I did before some Arduino projects and worked with Arduino IDE. Never saw this problem. Any ideas ? Thanks.
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Post by tanephar on Oct 23, 2017 9:25:09 GMT
I suspect that the DP4 could be a different board, if you have the original firmware file look for the board type, and enter it into the new firmware configuration.h file, there is a gcode command to find all the relevant information too. See if I can find it for you.
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