tanephar, I decided to try to upgrade my custom 1.1.1 fw to 1.1.4. Going trhough the changes you made to the config file, few things caught my eye...
1) Heater temperatures:
Stock fw:
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150
Yours 1.1.4:
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 260
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 260
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 260
#define BED_MAXTEMP 110
Not a big deal, just wanted to check if there was a reason to go lower?
2) Do you use the stock sensor or BL-Touch? Did you experience some issues so you disabled these?
#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF // Turn heaters off when probing
#define PROBING_FANS_OFF // Turn fans off when probing
3) Thumbs up! This is smart... should speed up the leveling a lot, will definitely try this hack...
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 1 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 1 // Z Clearance between probe points
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -15
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 3
4) Z_HOMING_HEIGHT
Do you use clamps? I didn't have this enabled in my 1.1.1 and never had a problem...
Thanks,
Mirek
Hi Mirek, yep, the specs from DMS are max temp 260 for hot end and 110 for bed, so my thinking is follow the guidelines set by the manufacturer. I use stock sensor and build plate, I was going to go with glass, but decided against it in the end, once I got heights good. If I had used a glass build plate I would have used a silicone self adhesive thermal transfer compound.
www.aliexpress.com/item/New-30mm-30mm-0-5-1-0-1-5-2-0-2-5-3-0mm-CPU/32806999142.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3hQyrf The idea is the silicone allows for the slight warping of the aluminum bed heater, explained well here
3dprinterwiki.info/di3-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/When I did the edit of 1.1.4 I took the functions from systpro's version, and just tweaked a couple of things, like the redundant sensor function that was causing an issue with heating, and the acceleration and jerk values suggested by 3dprintingmeathead, so most of the kudos goes to them. My version was really a joint effort.
The Z homing height is to allow 2mm clearance from the bed, more to minimize the chance of damage to bed and nozzle if anything goes pear shaped, when I started with my DP5 I had a lot of problems, like many users with the nozzle burying itself in the bed, better to err on the side of caution.
