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Post by tanephar on Nov 6, 2017 2:17:48 GMT
I was never happy with bed cables, they tend to twist and a couple of times have managed to catch between the bed and the case, destroying a print. I fitted the 3mm ali bed that Ralf designed, and tapped 2 x 3mm threads into the rear of the plate before fitting. Then I used this cable chain that I found and printed ready to go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1612910I made 2 extra parts to be able to mount it onto the DP5, 1 is a 90° mount for the chain to attache to the cable outlet at the rear of the printer, and the other is just a flat plate that moves the attachment at the carriage back 50mm, allowing for the cables to feed to the bed and endstop. Works well and gets rid of one of the things that has always bugged me about our printer.   I will make those 2 parts up on thingiverse if anyone else wants to do this upgrade, as a note I rotated the chain parts, so they were flat on the bed and printed with no supports. Added the set to Thingiverse here www.thingiverse.com/thing:2628674 |
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Post by kioskfan on Nov 6, 2017 14:50:37 GMT
Nice, I like it. How does the chain connect to the bed?
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Post by tanephar on Nov 6, 2017 19:26:44 GMT
I made a 50mm long block that extends from the back of the carriage, I'll get some pics of connections up shortly, before the world turns again. I did tap 2 x M3 threads into the aluminum carriage plate from Ralf, that is the only thing extra I did, at the case end I drilled 1 hole and used the already handy slot for attachment. This would only work with Ralf's aluminum carriage upgrade. I tried to work a way to do it with the acrylic part but just wouldn't happen.
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Post by tanephar on Nov 7, 2017 2:35:14 GMT
Ok here it is, here it is those pics, before another revolution of the planet. The connection to the bed, because I tapped an M3 thread there is no need for a bolt on the underside.  The external connection to the case.  The internal case connection, M3 button bolts with nyloc nuts internally.  All the stl files are included for the bed and case as well as the chain, male end at the bed, female end at the case, 17 links, no more twists or hang up, well for the cable at least, can't promise anything about no hang ups for me though. There is one other thing I have done, that is to make PETG washers that fit to either end of the spring, which keeps the springs straight, and level. If anyone wants these let me know I have the stl somewhere. |
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Post by kioskfan on Nov 7, 2017 4:04:31 GMT
I'm interested in anything that fits the DMS, upload it and I will print.
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Post by tanephar on Nov 7, 2017 8:25:51 GMT
I'm interested in anything that fits the DMS, upload it and I will print. Here is the washer set 8 laid up ready to go: SpringWasherSet.stl (900.08 KB) I haven't bothered putting them up on Thingiverse yet, been busy with life and the universe, but here they are for the members and guests of this user group, for now. Here's a pic of how they work, easy and notice the other mod in the background, passive cooling by the way of heat sinks on all the stepper motors, I noticed that the X- axis motor in particular ran hot, not so hot you couldn't touch it, but a bit of passive cooling will help to extend the life of the components.  |
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bart
New Member
Printing ...........
Posts: 10 
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Post by bart on Jan 14, 2018 10:37:45 GMT
I also wanted to do something about the bed cables and i liked the solution with the chain. I just did not want to let the chain at the back of the printer. So i did a little re-design just to get it all inside the housing of the printer. It was not easy getting all the wires in the chain and i had to resolder the connection to the bed heater but i am satisfied with the end result. the chain can be 17 links and i made two new end pieces which can be mounted without drilling extra holes. |
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