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Post by zounder1 on May 20, 2020 13:53:23 GMT
DP5 Marlin 2.0.5.3 firmware I have been tired of using a very dated version of Marlin for my DP5 printer. I decided to upgrade the DP5 firmware to the latest release of Marlin: 2.0.5.3. I have been running this version on my DP5 printer for nearly two weeks and it seems to be very stable. Given this, it is time to release this software to more users to see if it is truly production ready. I have been running internal BETA versioning after every revision to get it working on the DP5. As a result, this release is called: DP5 BETA 4. Compiling notes: - Compiled with the newest version of Arduino IDE. Version 1.8.12.
- Board: “Arduino MEGA or Mega 2560” ****Use this exact text
- Processor: “ATmega 2560 (Mega2560)” ****Use this exact text
Firmware notes: - Auto bed leveling is enabled. Your Z offset for the first layer may not be correct anymore. Please re-level and set a new Z offset. Pay careful attention on your first print to ensure the nozzle does not ram into the print bed
- Babystepping is a new feature and now enabled. You can adjust the Z height from the LCD menu while printing. This enables you to fine tune the nozzle height for a perfect first layer
. - Filament sensor is enabled but not working yet. I am playing around with this setting and will report back if I get it working. Fortunately, this should not affect your printing. If your printer gives you filament out warnings then simply disable the filament sensor using the LCD menu. Make sure to save to EEPROM to remember this change over power cycles
- Please make sure you have a working copy of an older firmware version in case this firmware does not work for you!
- My only upgrade is a genuine E3D hotend. This allowed me to set the maximum nozzle temp to 245C. The stock hotend cannot handle this temperature – you will either soften or melt your PTFE filament tube. Do not run over 230C with your stock hotend
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I hope others find this release useful. Download the file from here: drive.google.com/file/d/1acwy5P1i1ptG_s1SKIOQ5T6Pau6YdLE_/view?usp=sharing |
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Post by kioskfan on May 20, 2020 20:58:22 GMT
Good work, thank you!
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Post by Alex on May 22, 2020 0:23:37 GMT
Hi, zounder1!
That was great idea to configure the latest Marlin for DP5!
I've just compiled for my printer and so far everything works great!
Can you say, how can I determine the name of my hotend?
This question is because mine looks exactly like E3D and it was in stock!
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Post by zounder1 on May 22, 2020 2:10:16 GMT
Hi, zounder1! That was great idea to configure the latest Marlin for DP5! I've just compiled for my printer and so far everything works great! Can you say, how can I determine the name of my hotend? This question is because mine looks exactly like E3D and it was in stock! The stock hotend is an E3D clone. It is actually a good quality clone. And yes, it looks exactly like an E3D on the outside. With the stock E3D clone for the DP5 I received, the PTFE tube goes down close to the heating block. It goes through most of the heat break and actually get super close to the heating block area. As a result, the PTFE gets exposed to the full heat of the heating block which means it gets exposed to a LOT of heat. PTFE starts getting soft and off-gassing some nasty (toxic) gas once it goes over 230-235. With the E3D hotend, the PTFE tube ends much further up the heat break so it is much further away from the heating block. It actually ends in the middle of the cooler. This means the PTFE is exposed to little to no heat from the heating block. Your E3D clone could be different than mine. The only way you can confirm is to disassemble your hotend and look to see if the PTFE tube stops in the heat break at the middle of the cooler. I have had three E3D clones for various printers and everyone of them had the PTFE go through most of the heat break and really close to the heating block. FYI. When printing PLA and such, I did not notice much difference in print quality - it was a bit better but not enough to justify if you just print PLA or any other filament that is good below 230C. I upgraded as I was interested in trying ABS for a few parts. So I made the jump to a genuine E3D to let me safely get over 230C. As a bonus, the PETG I regularly use (and can get for a good price) seems to work best at 245C. I know some brands of PETG is fine at 230C but I was not getting good flow at that temp. I know am very conservative with this. You can probably find folks that push their stock head to 240C without any apparent issue. But it is something I am not comfortable doing. Sorry, I rambled on here a bit! I am happy to hear you were able to compile and install the new firmware and get it working. Please let me know if you have any issues. FYI, there are a few other features in the latest Marlin that I want to enable and see if they work. If they work for me, I'll post another beta with these features enabled. |
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alex
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Post by alex on May 25, 2020 10:33:06 GMT
Thank you, zounder1, for such a useful rambling!)))
I actually ordered a couple full metal throats for e3d instead of buying the whole hotend. Will see if it's convinient to disassemle the head when changing filament) But now, since I'm new to 3d printing, gonna try some different setting in Cura to print faster and with better accuracy. So could you please share your Cura settings for PLA?
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bart
New Member
Printing ...........
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Post by bart on Jun 6, 2020 13:54:41 GMT
Thanks a lot for the new firmware. This is something that i would like to do for a long time. The upgrade went well i am now optimising. I also have a non standard hotend. This should also be able to print at higher temperatures. I had some trouble in getting a stable hotend temperature. I fixed this by executing a PID autotune. I do not know exactly what it does but it helped stabilising the hotend temperature.
I also use octoprint and the bed level visualisation plugin (great tools). The plugin uses the G29 T , G81 and M420 V commands . Unfortunately the firmware does not support this commands, it says unknown command. i hope i can figure out how to fix this.
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Post by zounder1 on Jun 6, 2020 20:50:05 GMT
Thanks a lot for the new firmware. This is something that i would like to do for a long time. The upgrade went well i am now optimising. I also have a non standard hotend. This should also be able to print at higher temperatures. I had some trouble in getting a stable hotend temperature. I fixed this by executing a PID autotune. I do not know exactly what it does but it helped stabilising the hotend temperature. I also use octoprint and the bed level visualisation plugin (great tools). The plugin uses the G29 T , G81 and M420 V commands . Unfortunately the firmware does not support this commands, it says unknown command. i hope i can figure out how to fix this. PID autotune is always a good idea after upgrading firmware. I believe the PID tune defaults to "standard" numbers after firmware upgrade - PID tune optimizes based on how your hotend heats up and maintains temp. What type of thermistor does your hotend use? There are settings in the firmware for lots of different styles of thermistors. I chose the one that is stock with the DP5 which happens to match the E3D thermistor I use pretty well. Did your old DP5 firmware support G29, G81 and M420? Or are you hoping to get support for those? In the firmware Beta4 I released, I have not enabled any features considered "beta" by the Marlin developers so those commands may be not enabled yet. Let me know as I hope to release an updated firmware version this week with a few more changes. If I can see where those M commands are located I will try and enable them and you can test them out. The board with the DP5 has a lot memory and ram to spare so enabling the commands should not be an issue. |
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bart
New Member
Printing ...........
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Post by bart on Jun 7, 2020 15:02:30 GMT
Thanks for the info. I did not have to change anything on the previous firmware when i installed the new hotend. So i think its the same as the standard one. Although the size and temperature range is much bigger. This is the hotend i am using now. nl.aliexpress.com/item/32973717918.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d0CZWTQI also found out why the G29T command did not work. This only works when linear bed level is enabled. So i changed the config from Bi linear to linear. Now the bed level visualisation is working again! Its a really nice feature to see how bend my printed is. ![]()  Last but not least i enabled the Z stepper auto alignment function. Much better then doing it by hand! It is working fine by sending G34. |
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bart
New Member
Printing ...........
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Post by bart on Jun 10, 2020 10:29:35 GMT
I did some checking on the z stepper auto alignment function. The software does work and the printer executes the procedure. unfortunately the z stepper drivers cannot operate individually. this means it cannot correct any misalignment.
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Post by kioskfan on Jun 10, 2020 17:59:00 GMT
I did some checking on the z stepper auto alignment function. The software does work and the printer executes the procedure. unfortunately the z stepper drivers cannot operate individually. this means it cannot correct any misalignment. Both Z motors go to the same connector. The gantry design does not really allow for anything but level operation. I've seen some Core XY designs with three motors on the Z axis that can automatically level the bed, I think it's a lot of mechanisms for little return but it's still nice to see the research done. Glad you're getting some success and thanks for contributing! -Brian |
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herod
New Member
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Post by herod on Jun 22, 2020 13:40:28 GMT
hi there i just compiled
now i have Err: EEPROM Version
Any issue plz
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bart
New Member
Printing ...........
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Post by bart on Jun 24, 2020 10:40:20 GMT
I had the same issue. You can enter the config panel and switch off the filament sensor option. After that everything works as it should be.
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alex
New Member
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Post by alex on Aug 3, 2020 21:12:48 GMT
Thanks for the info. I did not have to change anything on the previous firmware when i installed the new hotend. So i think its the same as the standard one. Although the size and temperature range is much bigger. This is the hotend i am using now. nl.aliexpress.com/item/32973717918.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d0CZWTQI also found out why the G29T command did not work. This only works when linear bed level is enabled. So i changed the config from Bi linear to linear. Now the bed level visualisation is working again! Its a really nice feature to see how bend my printed is. ![]() Last but not least i enabled the Z stepper auto alignment function. Much better then doing it by hand! It is working fine by sending G34. Unfortunately the extruder from the link above didn't match the size of original extruder. It's smaller for 1.5 cm and has to be pulled down in stock holder. For this hotend I cannot stabilize the temp even with PID autotune((( Also I found that every time I try to upload the firmware i get blue screen on my laptop. Maybe it happens only with my computer)) |
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