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Post by mcgnai on Oct 29, 2018 15:27:36 GMT
I took this printer from the preassembled Aliexpress, so as not to have problems in the assembly and setting being a neophyte myself. In the video you can see what happens if I try to print or if I select "Auto Home" or "Level Bed" from the menu. I have not found the manual for this printer nor a video that helps me solve the problem. can you help me please. What should I do? Thank you this is the link of video www.dropbox.com/s/vvkyk37emgy2ec7/20181029_145807.mp4?dl=0Attachments:
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Oct 29, 2018 16:05:07 GMT
Try removing the mat on the heated bed. We had a problem with it on the last design creating too much space between the bed and the sensor, I bet the new model does the same. I'll share this video with them and see what they say.
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Post by kioskfan on Oct 29, 2018 16:33:08 GMT
Ouch, that's scary! I haven't seen the new machine yet but is there some kind of indicator light on that sensor and is it going on and off as it gets near the bed? If the sensor has a light and it goes on and off I'd next check the connections on the main board as they may need to be tightened.
When I had a problem with a damaged Y sensor I was able to test it using a program called Pronterface. You run it from your computer and attach the computer to the printer via USB. Pronterface allows you to send codes and check the sensors. Again I don't know what is in the new software but for my model this worked.
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Oct 29, 2018 16:38:25 GMT
They usually have an indicator light but the best way to check is to raise z axis and waive metal under the sensor. If the mat is to blame then simply lowering the bed and checking for a light might make you falsely believe the sensor is bad
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Oct 29, 2018 16:53:57 GMT
The mat used(if they did not change it) is 0.6mm thick. When they assemble the printer, they calibrate the sensor with no mat on the bed. So, best case scenario, since the mat is not metallic, the printer will think the print surface is .6mm lower than what it actually is. Worst case scenario is what we see here(and the easiest way to calibrate the printer). The assembler lowers the nozzle to proper print height, then lowers the sensor slowly until the indicator light turns on, all without the mat on the print bed. Then, when a user applies the mat, the printer drops to try to home, but the nozzle hits the bed(which is now .6mm higher than it was before) without the sensor finding the print surface. So the printer pushes the z down, which pushes the bed down further, and it will keep going down because the sensor cannot find the bed because the nozzle is keeping it out of sensor distance.
I just emailed them that they cant really have it set up both ways out of the factory. The sensor has to be moved to a different depth to print with the mat than without the mat. They tune the printer without the mat. I recommended either to not include the mat, or to apply the mat before calibrating the bed level sensor. But it's about 2am in Shenzhen right now, so it will be a while before I hear back from them.
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Post by mcgnai on Nov 2, 2018 23:33:29 GMT
today I removed the mat and now when I'm set auto home the sensor works correctly. unfortunately if I try to make a print without a mat, the PLA does not stick but shoots away. At this point I have to put the mat back on and calibrate the sensor again. can you explain to me step by step how to setting the sensor? thank you
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Post by kioskfan on Nov 4, 2018 0:54:20 GMT
I don't have a step by step for your machine but if everything is working and your extruder crashes into the bed then the sensor is too high. Keep lowering it down a little bit at a time and see if you can find the sweet spot.
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Nov 4, 2018 1:10:57 GMT
I'd first try some glue stick on a clean bed, a lot of people get great adhesion that way. Use rubbing alcohol to clean the bed, then apply a light film of it on a cold bed.
Of course it's not for everyone, but it might be the easy way. The tricky way is to turn on the printer and manually lower the bed without homing until you can drag a piece of paper between the mat and the nozzle(if ot doesmt let you lower without homing then turn off the printer and unplug the z motors, then turn them manually and equally until a piece of paper slips between the bed and nozzle, with a little drag then turn the printer back on and plug in the z motors) then lower the sensor until the indicator light turns on( there should be one but if there is not you should see a message like z and stop hit on the panel). Then try a test print to see if you need to adjust the z offset. If the print doesnt stick to the mat or is smooshed into the mat, watch a YouTube video on how to set a z offset(its been a while since I did it so best not for me to give you bad information on how to).
I had a feeling that was the problem, I've seen it before. I emailed them about it but they havnt gotten back to me. It's just impossible to set it up to work with or without the mat out of the box. I personally love gluestick, I get great adhesion, its dirt cheap, and easy to clean up and re apply(rubbing alcohol works best, non ammonia glass cleaner works well too, brillo pad if you put down way too much, anything more than a thin coat is too much). But a lot of people say they cant get it to stick or prefer a light coat of hairspray. The Mets can be great, but they definitely have a life expectancy, and one nozzle drag through the mat can ruin it(or your spatula cuts it up during print removal) and they're not exactly cheap. Kapton tape and painters tape are also popular options.
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