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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Mar 12, 2017 6:02:24 GMT
I had all sorts of problems with under-extrusion when I got some filament from monoprice. It drove me mad why the motor was constantly skipping. I tried many things, including upping the current, changing the extruder location, shortening the tube, playing with flow rates and speed and layer height, but nothing solved it. So I broke down and bought this and it solved my extrusion problems. |
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Post by Admin on Mar 12, 2017 6:32:40 GMT
Did you print the parts yourself? I was looking at your video and youtube suggested I watch a number of other designs. I can't believe there are so many alternatives for a problem I just learned about! Nice work on your printer, you're sure going to town on the mods.
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Mar 12, 2017 6:41:14 GMT
Did you print the parts yourself? I was looking at your video and youtube suggested I watch a number of other designs. I can't believe there are so many alternatives for a problem I just learned about! Nice work on your printer, you're sure going to town on the mods. Yup, the seller included the stl needed for the print. I did modify it slightly though. I drilled a 4mm hole through the output so I could run my bowden tube as close as possible to the drive gear. That way I won't have any trouble printing nylon or other semi-flexible filament. The problem kinda boils down to 2 things 1) the drive gear is huge, and it takes some muscle to push a drive gear that big. 2) Long bowden tubes can add resistance to the system. But the hobbed bolt kit solves both of these and adds the benefit of super fine extrusion resolution. I went from 100 steps per mm, to 675. So I can extrude filament over 6 times more precisely now. But I'm not done upgrading yet. Actually might have to get my popcorn and feety pajamas for that corexy conversion project. I'll be eyeing that project for next winter. |
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antti
New Member
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Post by antti on Mar 23, 2017 21:20:52 GMT
My ABS -filament started to skip a lot from a start. I notised it skipped mostly when filament bended after gear because of long distance before tube starts. So I printed this 8mm long piece (M6, 2,5mm hole, little bevel and notches). I used 0.2mm nozzle so the thread came quite nicely. Now filament comes straight. First there was little skipping but I think the filament refined the piece little bit and now works fine.    |
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king
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by king on Mar 24, 2017 12:51:45 GMT
My ABS -filament started to skip a lot from a start. I notised it skipped mostly when filament bended after gear because of long distance before tube starts. So I printed this 8mm long piece (M6, 2,5mm hole, little bevel and notches). I used 0.2mm nozzle so the thread came quite nicely. Now filament comes straight. First there was little skipping but I think the filament refined the piece little bit and now works fine. View AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentGreat job! I did it in true meathead style (I stole that line 🤣) and glued a piece of PTFE tube into the hole with blue thread locker. I like your solution better. |
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Mar 24, 2017 14:31:20 GMT
true meathead style is licensed under the creative commons attribution, and use or dissemination of the term is strictly unenforceable.
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Mar 24, 2017 14:33:48 GMT
My ABS -filament started to skip a lot from a start. I notised it skipped mostly when filament bended after gear because of long distance before tube starts. So I printed this 8mm long piece (M6, 2,5mm hole, little bevel and notches). I used 0.2mm nozzle so the thread came quite nicely. Now filament comes straight. First there was little skipping but I think the filament refined the piece little bit and now works fine. I did try that(well not that, but a similar one) before and although it did help some, I still had problems with certain types of filament. Kinda jealous that you're having great luck with it though. This drove me crazy over the course of a couple weeks. |
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mirek
New Member
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Post by mirek on Jun 10, 2017 10:08:41 GMT
Ran into clicking extruder too. Seems like a problem only for models where retraction happens very often, the filament bows and gets stuck in the tube. Printed following thingiverse model and problem is solved ;-) www.thingiverse.com/thing:2129179 |
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Jun 10, 2017 13:15:21 GMT
Ran into clicking extruder too. Seems like a problem only for models where retraction happens very often, the filament bows and gets stuck in the tube. Printed following thingiverse model and problem is solved ;-) www.thingiverse.com/thing:2129179That was the first fix I tried as well, but it was only a bandaid for mine. |
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Post by kioskfan on Jun 10, 2017 15:21:16 GMT
Ran into clicking extruder too. Seems like a problem only for models where retraction happens very often, the filament bows and gets stuck in the tube. Printed following thingiverse model and problem is solved ;-) www.thingiverse.com/thing:2129179That was the first fix I tried as well, but it was only a bandaid for mine. I thought you switched to a direct drive, are you still using the Wade gear? |
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mirek
New Member
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Post by mirek on Dec 15, 2017 10:25:54 GMT
Finally, I must agree with 3dprintingmeathead... The stock extruder works mostly fine for PLA, but for any other filament the Wades extruder is the only real silver bullet. If you don't have time to rework your extruder right now, then I have few suggestions that helped me a bit:
1) make one of the mods mentioned above so there is no gap between gear and tube so the filament cannot bent
2) lower down the retraction distance. Cura by default retracts a lot, the fillament bends in the tube, the friction rises and at some point the extruder doesn't have enough torque and starts clicking. The Cura default setting was 6.5mm, lowering it down to 2mm helped a lot...
3) change the PTFE tube. Buy high quality PTFE tube with exact inner diameter. I used tube that came with the E3D V6 hot end and comparing to the stock one the inner diameter was much more tight, so less space for the filament to bent. While inner diameter is tighter, the tube provides much smoother movement of the filament
4) shorten the PTFE tube. DMS DP5 manual instructs to let the PTFE tube goes above the gantry, so the PTFE needs to be quite long. I moved the extruder bit lower, the tube goes under the gantry so it could be significantly shorter. It can still reach the Z-MAX, but I hardly ever print parts taller than 100mm, so this wasn't really my concern
All and all, if you have problems with clicking extruder, find a time and go for Wades extruder. It is cheap, reliable, easy to build and provides much better control over the extrusion...
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pal35
New Member
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Post by pal35 on Dec 15, 2017 12:50:14 GMT
Thanks for the info.
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