|
|
Post by theking3737 on Nov 12, 2017 9:32:39 GMT
Hello guys, I'm quite new at 3D-printing, so finding the best mods and settings would be difficult or time-consuming for me. I'm going to need this printer for a school project soon, so I would like to achieve a good printing quality. I only flashed this because I was having some problems with the X and Y axis. My printer is completely stock except the aforementioned firmware, I'm even using the (old) included version of cura. |
|
|
|
Post by tanephar on Nov 12, 2017 19:13:18 GMT
Try taking a look here dp5.boards.net/thread/41/cheap-upgrades, and scan the upgrades section. Here are links to a couple of things I posted to Thingiverse, that make the Z axis gantry more stable. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2495163 & www.thingiverse.com/thing:2472064. The most important thing to do out of the box is calibrate the extruder, there are some good guides out there, getting the steps/mm for filament extrusion are crucial to good print quality. Then print speed is next on the list, I run at 50mm for infill, 30mm for perimeters, and percentiles of these for outside perimeter, and first layer. Another setting to look at is the acceleration and jerk, which can be found in the firmware control/motion. I run these at 600/6. But peruse this board, there is great information here, when I got my DP5 and started printing with disastrous results, it was here I got all the information that solved all problems, and has me printing complex models for a variety of uses. Good luck. |
|
|
|
Post by kioskfan on Nov 12, 2017 19:38:37 GMT
Hello guys, I'm quite new at 3D-printing, so finding the best mods and settings would be difficult or time-consuming for me. I'm going to need this printer for a school project soon, so I would like to achieve a good printing quality. I only flashed this because I was having some problems with the X and Y axis. My printer is completely stock except the aforementioned firmware, I'm even using the (old) included version of cura. Welcome to the forum, hope you enjoy yourself here. Good work on upgrading your firmware! |
|
|
|
Post by theking3737 on Nov 13, 2017 18:44:31 GMT
Try taking a look here dp5.boards.net/thread/41/cheap-upgrades, and scan the upgrades section. Here are links to a couple of things I posted to Thingiverse, that make the Z axis gantry more stable. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2495163 & www.thingiverse.com/thing:2472064. The most important thing to do out of the box is calibrate the extruder, there are some good guides out there, getting the steps/mm for filament extrusion are crucial to good print quality. Then print speed is next on the list, I run at 50mm for infill, 30mm for perimeters, and percentiles of these for outside perimeter, and first layer. Another setting to look at is the acceleration and jerk, which can be found in the firmware control/motion. I run these at 600/6. But peruse this board, there is great information here, when I got my DP5 and started printing with disastrous results, it was here I got all the information that solved all problems, and has me printing complex models for a variety of uses. Good luck. Thanks for your reply, I tried setting up the acceleration and jerk, but I came across more options under these sections. Which of these setting should I set to 600/6? I'm running Marlin 1.1.4 BTW. |
|
|
|
Post by tanephar on Nov 13, 2017 22:17:09 GMT
Welcome to the group too btw, the 600/6 is the acceleration Amax X or Y: the jerk is the Vx / Vy setting the other thing I have done following 3dprintingmeatheads tips is alter all acceleration factors to 2500. The thingto do is print something, even a calibration cube and look at how these settings alter the quality until you find the parameters that suit you.
The other thing I see little mention of is PID tuning, I quote here from Wikipedia:
A proportional–integral–derivative controller (PID controller or three term controller) is a control loop feedback mechanism widely used in industrial control systems and a variety of other applications requiring continuously modulated control. A PID controller continuously calculates an error value e ( t ) {\displaystyle e(t)} e(t) as the difference between a desired setpoint (SP) and a measured process variable (PV) and applies a correction based on proportional, integral, and derivative terms (denoted P, I, and D respectively) which give the controller its name.
In practical terms it automatically applies accurate and responsive correction to a control function. An everyday example is the cruise control on a road vehicle; where external influences such as gradients would cause speed changes, and the driver has the ability to alter the desired set speed. The PID algorithm restores the actual speed to the desired speed in the optimum way, without delay or overshoot, by controlling the power output of the vehicle's engine. End quote btw.
So an example, and this is what I run when I autotune for PLA which I print at 195° is G code M303 E0 S195 C8, this indicates PID Autotune (M303) Extruder (E0) Temperature (S195) Cycles (C8) at the end will be given a set of values that you update the Kp, Ki, Kd with. I use MatterControl as my slicing and control software. In the control section, I can open a g code terminal and then update the EEPROM. Or Pronterface is another option. I run this every time I change a nozzle, or print with PETG which I print at 230°, or even if I changed a thermistor or heater cartridge.
Good luck, be prepared for a little synaptic meltdown with learning and applying all the information, but you will get good quality prints if you persevere and spend a little time getting these things right.
|
|
|
|
Post by theking3737 on Nov 23, 2017 16:13:14 GMT
Yesterday while printing for my school project I encountered some strange Z-wobble. Is this normal for a wall structure with a thickness of 3mm and a hight of around 80mm? It doesn't affect the results of the final project a lot, but it would be nice to sort it out for future use. Here is a picture which shows it at the upper part of the print.  I did add some sponges under the feet of the printer, which actually made noticeable difference in noise production. I used these settings to print (PLA): - Bed temperature: 70 - Printing temperature: 210 - layer height: 0.2 |
|
|
|
Post by kioskfan on Nov 23, 2017 16:29:05 GMT
On my printer I have to check all the nuts and bolts often and make sure they are tight, clean and add a drop of oil to all the bearing surfaces helps too. I also replaced the Z couplers as they were wobbling with these, www.thingiverse.com/make:355356 |
|
ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93 
|
Post by ralf on Nov 23, 2017 17:14:26 GMT
I had the same issue with the z-wobble, it is caused by slightly bent z rods. Take them out and roll them on a really flat surface to check if they are straight.
Despite that, there must be another issue because you’re layers look a bit irregular (flow,speed,temp)
|
|
|
|
Post by theking3737 on Nov 23, 2017 22:09:38 GMT
I had the same issue with the z-wobble, it is caused by slightly bent z rods. Take them out and roll them on a really flat surface to check if they are straight. Despite that, there must be another issue because you’re layers look a bit irregular (flow,speed,temp) How did you fix the bent rods? Did you bend them in shape? Those irregular lines are only present in the first print. The second print was actually really nice, although it still had the wobble. |
|
|
|
Post by tanephar on Nov 24, 2017 0:44:47 GMT
I found that bracing the gantry helped to solve wobble issues, I have printed and braced my gantry with these www.thingiverse.com/thing:2472064, these placed at the rear of the gantry, opposite the z stepper motors, and at the top solved both forward and back and lateral movement, that imo is one of the weakest points of this printer the gantry assembly. and for even more stability there are these too www.thingiverse.com/thing:2495163. Ralf has also posted his braces. It only takes a little vibration to be amplified by the gantry moving. |
|
ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93
|
Post by ralf on Nov 25, 2017 5:40:14 GMT
I had the same issue with the z-wobble, it is caused by slightly bent z rods. Take them out and roll them on a really flat surface to check if they are straight. Despite that, there must be another issue because you’re layers look a bit irregular (flow,speed,temp) How did you fix the bent rods? Did you bend them in shape? Those irregular lines are only present in the first print. The second print was actually really nice, although it still had the wobble. I’ve swapped them with rods from my old printer, to fix bent rods is almost impossible, you have to be really skilled and have the right tools for that. Just buy new ones and hope they are straight..... |
|
|
|
Post by theking3737 on Nov 25, 2017 14:24:46 GMT
I'm trying everything now to improve the quality, but I don't have the time to get some new rods, so I'll just keep using these. I'm now going to print the corner braces tanephar mentioned and hope that'll make a noticeable difference. I also tried updating to a newer version of cura, because I was still using 15.04.6. Can anyone maybe share their settings for cura 3.0.4? If the project in the end turns out to be a success, I would also like to share it with you guys  . |
|
denis
New Member
Posts: 18
|
Post by denis on Dec 3, 2017 5:52:35 GMT
Here is what I modified to reduce wobbling and increase the rigidity of the whole structure,Sori if my translation is bad,use the translator as I from Russia |
|
denis
New Member
Posts: 18
|
Post by denis on Dec 3, 2017 6:01:14 GMT
here's another cable going to the table,it is better to do it immediately otherwise you will die,and Yes, I have changed the firmware acceleration of the carriage to reduce the runout of the whole structure,respectively, has improved quality.but a lot still depends on the temperature of the table,the nozzle and the print speed and moving in the near future Piedad fans of China will lay out a new carriage with uludsheny blowing,so Radonova not enough. |
|
|
|
Post by kioskfan on Dec 3, 2017 6:08:39 GMT
Here is what I modified to reduce wobbling and increase the rigidity of the whole structure,Sori if my translation is bad,use the translator as I from Russia Nice mods. |
|
.
