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Post by kioskfan on Apr 13, 2017 21:33:53 GMT
Nice work.
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ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93 
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Post by ralf on Jun 1, 2017 6:41:29 GMT
Finally after a lot of testing i have finished the fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354826Perfect clearance and much better cooling, it's mounted at the position of the original fan and you can use it's screws (3 instead of 4)  |
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Post by kristiank on Jun 7, 2017 19:38:49 GMT
Does it cool the part evenly on all sides? I've upgraded my part cooling fan with blower style one, but I still get some ripples on the side that's not getting active cooling. Now I'm working on something similar, but with cooling on both sides for 360 degree cooling.
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ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93
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Post by ralf on Jun 8, 2017 18:00:00 GMT
Hi, in my opinon a circular fan is not a good solution, i have noticed this with my Anet A8 were i had one of this cicular nozzles. A cicular fan kind of "keeps" the heat in the middle. What we Need is a strong flow that drives out the heat.The airflow should exactly start at the end of the nozzle to get the filament cooled down as soon as posible and than a bigger outlet faceing downwards to maintain the cooling. Especially while bridging you can see if you have good cooling or not....(excuse my bad english😬)  |
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Post by kioskfan on Jun 8, 2017 19:43:46 GMT
Hi, in my opinon a circular fan is not a good solution, i have noticed this with my Anet A8 were i had one of this cicular nozzles. A cicular fan kind of "keeps" the heat in the middle. What we Need is a strong flow that drives out the heat.The airflow should exactly start at the end of the nozzle to get the filament cooled down as soon as posible and than a bigger outlet faceing downwards to maintain the cooling. Especially while bridging you can see if you have good cooling or not....(excuse my bad english😬) I would agree. The way I think about it is if your cooler is working you only need to cool the filament that you just deposited and not the whole part. I really like how so many people here are trying different solutions, good fun reading and experimenting. |
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Post by kristiank on Jun 11, 2017 13:09:53 GMT
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ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93
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Post by ralf on Jun 11, 2017 18:12:24 GMT
That's nice! it would have saved me a lot of time while i was desiging my airduct...... |
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ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93
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Post by ralf on Jun 11, 2017 18:19:20 GMT
Hi, in my opinon a circular fan is not a good solution, i have noticed this with my Anet A8 were i had one of this cicular nozzles. A cicular fan kind of "keeps" the heat in the middle. What we Need is a strong flow that drives out the heat.The airflow should exactly start at the end of the nozzle to get the filament cooled down as soon as posible and than a bigger outlet faceing downwards to maintain the cooling. Especially while bridging you can see if you have good cooling or not....(excuse my bad english😬) I would agree. The way I think about it is if your cooler is working you only need to cool the filament that you just deposited and not the whole part. I really like how so many people here are trying different solutions, good fun reading and experimenting. Sorry, not exactly, the hotend radiates heat to the part, so the part needs cooling as well.... |
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Post by kioskfan on Jun 11, 2017 19:32:08 GMT
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Post by kristiank on Jun 11, 2017 20:05:58 GMT
The one I posted is the OEM part of the printer. I shared if someone wants ro use it as reference part to check how modified parts fit. Im currently building mi own fan duct around it, but I've changed my idea 100 times so far... |
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mirek
New Member
Posts: 16
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Post by mirek on Nov 1, 2017 23:32:41 GMT
I upgraded nozzle from stock to genuine E3D V6 and since the original nozzle fastener allowed some vertical movement I designed my own 3-in-1 solution: nozzle holder and fastener, more powerful cooling fan and new bed leveling sensor mount (closer to the nozzle). As a bonus, it also holds all the necessary wires... So far very happy with the upgrade. If anyone else is interested, I uploaded the STL as well as the source file to the Thigiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2618565Happy 3D printing! Attachments:
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bart
New Member
Printing ...........
Posts: 10
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Post by bart on Jan 10, 2018 19:18:46 GMT
Finally after a lot of testing i have finished the fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354826Perfect clearance and much better cooling, it's mounted at the position of the original fan and you can use it's screws (3 instead of 4) I like the design of this duct very much so i printed my first upgrade! I also ordered two ultra silent fans to make the printer a bit less noisy. Unfortunately the noise blocker fans ( XM-2 and XS-1) are 12v. For the 50x50 mm fan i added a 300 ohm serial resistor and for the 40x40 mm fan 200 ohm. Now both fans getting the correct voltage supplied.  |
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Post by Phsychogony1 on Jan 12, 2018 3:46:10 GMT
Yup DMS DP5 cooling is definitely not awesome. Working on one myself based on the original (GPL) prusa i3 'front blower' (https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/). Rev0 works amazingly well (basically cut the head mounted extruder off in blender3d and reworked the placement of all holes so the mount fits DP5 x carriage). Unfortunately the extruder that ships with DP5 is not 'standard dimensions' (about 10mm too long). So using the mod means: * New extruder * 50mm blower fan * 40mm fan * Bunch of long M3 bolts * Re calibrating everything and loosing some build area (head is larger sideways with inductive z sensor) Will post back if I make any further real progress - around 10hours to print a new head  |
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Post by benjib42 on Jan 14, 2018 15:18:25 GMT
Hello, I also upgraded my printer with this type of cooling fan, i wired it in the PCB but is not started. I use Cura and i cheked "enable cooling fan", but the fan is not starting.
Is there anything else I must do ?
Thank You!
benjib
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