|
Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Mar 20, 2017 22:02:14 GMT
good to hear bro!
|
|
mirek
New Member
Posts: 16
|
Post by mirek on May 10, 2017 20:42:27 GMT
Interesting.. Just got my brand new DP5 and had exactly the same issue - bad Y axis end stop switch. Replaced with the spare part and now works perfectly.
kioskfan, you mentioned that you ordered five switches... Did you order directly from manufacturer?
By the way: thanks for running this forum. There doesn't seem to be a big community around DP5 (which is pity, it is quite solid printer for the price) so every advice is extra valuable!
|
|
|
Post by kioskfan on May 11, 2017 15:00:23 GMT
Interesting.. Just got my brand new DP5 and had exactly the same issue - bad Y axis end stop switch. Replaced with the spare part and now works perfectly. kioskfan, you mentioned that you ordered five switches... Did you order directly from manufacturer? By the way: thanks for running this forum. There doesn't seem to be a big community around DP5 (which is pity, it is quite solid printer for the price) so every advice is extra valuable! I found them on ebay. I think five were $3 delivered and it took less than 3 days. I replaced the broken one and put it with my spares incase I need it again. Glad it was useful to you. Make sure you poke around the forums while you're here, we'd love to see what you're working on too. Cheers, -Brian
|
|
mirek
New Member
Posts: 16
|
Post by mirek on May 19, 2017 22:15:38 GMT
Hi, thanks for your answer and help!
Wondering if the one you bought came with cable and connector... Not that I am afraid of soldering, but usually things on ebay are so cheap, that it doesn't even worth powering the soldering station ;-) Anyway, if this happens again, I will probably rather go for optical end-stops which are probably much more reliable and precise plus costs pretty much the same...
Regarding my progress... I had issues with bed leveling so decided to leave the original firmware and upgrade to latest Marlin 1.1.1... Took a while to figure out all the settings to make it right but it now runs nicely and I am finally getting fairly nice first layers. Printing with PLA and PET-G... I take the PET-G as a nice substitution for ABS because it doesn't smell and is recyclable.
Already identified some more weak spots - definitely need belt tensioner for X and Y. Found one for X on this forum (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1999669), but so far haven't found solution for Y axis. Have some ideas for elegant solution thou - will update you if I will succeed ;-)
Other than that, I definitely need better layer cooling...
So far I don't have any issues with the original bowden extruder, works nicely for both PLA and PET-G.
|
|
|
Post by kioskfan on May 20, 2017 1:37:54 GMT
Hi, thanks for your answer and help! Wondering if the one you bought came with cable and connector... Not that I am afraid of soldering, but usually things on ebay are so cheap, that it doesn't even worth powering the soldering station ;-) Anyway, if this happens again, I will probably rather go for optical end-stops which are probably much more reliable and precise plus costs pretty much the same... Regarding my progress... I had issues with bed leveling so decided to leave the original firmware and upgrade to latest Marlin 1.1.1... Took a while to figure out all the settings to make it right but it now runs nicely and I am finally getting fairly nice first layers. Printing with PLA and PET-G... I take the PET-G as a nice substitution for ABS because it doesn't smell and is recyclable. Already identified some more weak spots - definitely need belt tensioner for X and Y. Found one for X on this forum (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1999669), but so far haven't found solution for Y axis. Have some ideas for elegant solution thou - will update you if I will succeed ;-) Other than that, I definitely need better layer cooling... So far I don't have any issues with the original bowden extruder, works nicely for both PLA and PET-G. Here's what I got, www.ebay.com/itm/152082716420Well done on the firmware upgrade!!! If you find a tensioner solution for the X please share, haven't seen one yet. There's quite a few fan upgrade choices, let us know what you decide on. Cheers!
|
|
|
Post by systpro on Jun 21, 2017 17:30:36 GMT
Hi, thanks for your answer and help! Wondering if the one you bought came with cable and connector... Not that I am afraid of soldering, but usually things on ebay are so cheap, that it doesn't even worth powering the soldering station ;-) Anyway, if this happens again, I will probably rather go for optical end-stops which are probably much more reliable and precise plus costs pretty much the same... Regarding my progress... I had issues with bed leveling so decided to leave the original firmware and upgrade to latest Marlin 1.1.1... Took a while to figure out all the settings to make it right but it now runs nicely and I am finally getting fairly nice first layers. Printing with PLA and PET-G... I take the PET-G as a nice substitution for ABS because it doesn't smell and is recyclable. Already identified some more weak spots - definitely need belt tensioner for X and Y. Found one for X on this forum (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1999669), but so far haven't found solution for Y axis. Have some ideas for elegant solution thou - will update you if I will succeed ;-) Other than that, I definitely need better layer cooling... So far I don't have any issues with the original bowden extruder, works nicely for both PLA and PET-G. Hi mirek ! can you share the settings for the DMS DP5 on a marlin firmware 1.1.1 ? a very simple guide to upgrade the firmware can help a lot! i am mad with auto leveling in the stock firmware! thanks for reading.
|
|