ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93 
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Post by ralf on Jun 25, 2017 9:40:41 GMT
I had this issue from the beginning, slight layershifting every 8mm. I could live with than but it would be good to solve it somehow. The parts were printed with 0.3 layer and 50mm/s. Any suggestions?   |
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Post by kioskfan on Jun 25, 2017 15:20:51 GMT
I've noticed in the photos you've and some others have posted that these machines have flexible couplings on the Z axis motors. My machine, that was delivered in early March of this year has solid couplings. This may make some difference. You could test this theory by printing solid couplers or making them from aluminum which you have shown talent in  |
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Jun 25, 2017 16:12:06 GMT
I'll second printing solid couplers. A clamshell design www.thingiverse.com/thing:1329750 this is what I use. Frankly, this is one of those parts that should never have a problem if 3d printed. PLA will do nicely. The ones that come with the DP5 have grub screws that get caught in the threads of the lead screw and go off center. You can also check the rods to make sure they're straight, but be careful removing them. I recommend moving the axis all the way up and removing them from the bottom because the grub screw on the couplers can damage the threads on the rods, which will damage the brass nut if tried to force through. |
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ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93
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Post by ralf on Jun 25, 2017 18:40:10 GMT
Thank you, mine came with the solid couplers, but i tought that the flexible ones are better so i have changed them.
I will give it a try and change them back.....
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Post by systpro on Jun 26, 2017 4:29:28 GMT
I'll second printing solid couplers. A clamshell design www.thingiverse.com/thing:1329750 this is what I use. Frankly, this is one of those parts that should never have a problem if 3d printed. PLA will do nicely. The ones that come with the DP5 have grub screws that get caught in the threads of the lead screw and go off center. You can also check the rods to make sure they're straight, but be careful removing them. I recommend moving the axis all the way up and removing them from the bottom because the grub screw on the couplers can damage the threads on the rods, which will damage the brass nut if tried to force through. Hi ! My first fail 😅 PLA: 210c heatbed : 0c Maskingtape Is best with a tempered glass ? My bed is no longer perfectly Flat after several strong colisions with the hotend. Autohome works with tempered glass and stock inductive sensor ? Thanks !  |
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Post by 3dprintingmeathead on Jun 26, 2017 9:34:39 GMT
This is a common problem with pcb heated beds. Especially with powerful ones like we are blessed with  I don't think the sensor on the dp5 can work through the glass needed for printing temps ( 1/8", or 3mm for those who don't use fractions Also worth noting, it's NOT worth the money to get tempered glass, regular glass will do just fine, at a fraction (hehe) of the cost. I went to my hardware store and bought a 6 pack of mirrors for $10 and they cut them to size for me. That means I could have 18 build plates for the cost of 1 tempered glass pane. The better alternative, cost wise, would be to get a piece of milled aluminum, 3mm thick, and bolt it on top of your build plate. That will keep the stock sensor working and will not warp on you. If you go glass bed, I recommend either manual leveling or BLtouch sensor. I use the BLtouch and it's supported in marlin firmware, with many how to videos on youtube. The stock unit can handle quite a bit of warp though, I'd make sure your sensor screws are tight and check offset values, adjust as necessary. |
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Post by systpro on Jun 26, 2017 20:49:04 GMT
This is a common problem with pcb heated beds. Especially with powerful ones like we are blessed with I don't think the sensor on the dp5 can work through the glass needed for printing temps ( 1/8", or 3mm for those who don't use fractions Also worth noting, it's NOT worth the money to get tempered glass, regular glass will do just fine, at a fraction (hehe) of the cost. I went to my hardware store and bought a 6 pack of mirrors for $10 and they cut them to size for me. That means I could have 18 build plates for the cost of 1 tempered glass pane. The better alternative, cost wise, would be to get a piece of milled aluminum, 3mm thick, and bolt it on top of your build plate. That will keep the stock sensor working and will not warp on you. If you go glass bed, I recommend either manual leveling or BLtouch sensor. I use the BLtouch and it's supported in marlin firmware, with many how to videos on youtube. The stock unit can handle quite a bit of warp though, I'd make sure your sensor screws are tight and check offset values, adjust as necessary. Thanks for the mirror tip! I Need to slow down to 20% in certain layers to let the hotend "melt" some misplaced filament (top the screw holes)  But the piece finish ok 👍🏾 ( to my novice standars)   |
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ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93
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Post by ralf on Jul 21, 2017 16:18:39 GMT
Finally the Z wobble has gone, the issue was that the z rods were slightly bend. Now i‘m happy again:  |
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Post by kioskfan on Jul 22, 2017 17:48:04 GMT
Beautiful part, what's it do?
I made the couplings but I still have some odd artifacts. 3Dprintingmeathead said it's the leveling but I checked it and it's good. I'm making mostly motor mounts and couplings so I don't care about the surface appearance.
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ralf
Junior Member
Posts: 93
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Post by ralf on Jul 23, 2017 16:50:00 GMT
Hello kioskfan, the print above is a part of the wings for a rc plane (spitfire from thingiverse) wich i‘m printing for a friend who is into rc flying.
My prints dramatically improved since i‘ve disabled the z hop in simplify, stringing and blobs just disappeared. I can’t remember if there is a similar option in cura. I’m still waiting for those smoothener things from aliexpress wich might reduce those „frequency artifacts“.
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Post by cipispe on Sept 10, 2017 13:11:37 GMT
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